Sunday, 22 December 2013

Spray Painting metal enclosures (Hammer Tone)

So you can solder up a perf board with resistors and capacitors and make your pedal sound amazing. But whats the next step.... pedal finishes! This is exactly how I feel. I've built about 5 or 6 pedals and I'm really getting around to doing a good job of it. But when I go on these DIY guitar pedal forums, I see these professionals that have amazing graphics on their pedals. If you spend time on these forums you'll notice a lot of talk about "Powder coating", this is the preferred method by boutique builders and big companies. There are thousands of articles about powder coating on the internet, but I could never find a good article about spray painting pedals. In my mind, spray painting was the easiest way to achieve a nice finish and at the end of this page you might see that it does a decent job of doing so. Before you start spray painting make sure you finish all your drilling because it you drill after you paint, you might damage the finish.

Here is how I spray painted my metal enclosure with spray paint:

1. Buy the spray paint you want
Usually when you build a pedal, you have an idea what the graphics or finishes might look like. There are thousands of different kinds of spray paints, I just went to my local hardware store. I didn't really want to just have a solide colour. Instead I I got this really cool HAMMERED paint by Rustoleum. 

I got it in a Rosemary colour because it had the most detail. If you look really closely to the picture below, you can see that it's got a really neat looking texture to it. Now I warn you, if you want to use this paint, or and other hammer tone paint, it's a lot more difficult to apply and get the results you want, I'll explain more on the tips of spray painting with specifically this kind of spray paint.  

2. Find a space that is well ventilated 
I'm sure we all hate the smell of spray paint so if you can, SAVE YOUR SELF AND SPRAY PAINT OUTSIDE! Sadly I could not spray paint outside because the paint can says that it needs a temperature of 10°C so I needed to spray paint in my workshop because it's wintertime in Canada! If you do paint inside, at least find a window you can open.   


3. Prep the enclosure for painting
This step is very important because you need to roughen up the enclosure so that the paint can stick onto it. This step is very simple, you just need 3 things, low grit sand paper, higher but not super fine grit sand paper, and a wire brush. I you want you really only need sandpaper but the wire brush helps. If you are going to use all of the go from left to right in terms of order, heavy sandpaper to start and wire brush to finish. Make sure to do one side at a time. When you are done this step,  go to your sink and wet the enclosure. Use soap and lather it everywhere you roughened up. This will help get rid of al the really small metal particles stuck in the grooves. If you don't do this step, the paint will have a hard time sticking on. 

4. PAINT
I strongly suggest that you start with the back plate of the enclosure. This will be your kinda practice run because it's only the back, you won't see it often. I'm sure we all know how to spray paint, point and shoot. Always read the label of the can, it might have some helpful tips for the paint. Generally you want to start with a light base coat. A couple sprays back and forth will do it. On these sprays, don't go slow, go at a moderate passe. Then, just leave it over night. The next day once it is dry, go for the second coat. This time you have a choice for it to be the final coat or just another one. I suggest that you go for another light coat and let it dry overnight. Now for the final coat. For this particular paint specifically, go slow when you are moving across. This hammer tone paint is weird, very unpredictable. So go slow when applying the final coat, don't be afraid if it's thick, it'll just take time to dry. With this paint I noticed that I wasn't happy with the look of it on the third coat, so I just sprayed more on it. I maybe sprayed 5 coats on it before I was happy with the result.


If you look really hard you can see the really cool texture of this paint


Now that you have the back plate done, it is time to paint the full enclosure. I used a piece of wood to hold it up. With this paint you really want to spray downwards. If it is not sprayed down, the texture won't be the same. So as you can see with these pictures I've made it so the enclosure is almost flat.





I did the face of the enclosure last because it was the spot that I would see the most and I would of had the most practice.

I pretty pleased with the sides of the enclosure


The drying process. As I said, spray paint on a flat surface so you spray downwards. once you are done that coat, let it sit for about 30mins to an hour. At this point it will still be tacky but the texture will be solidified. to accelerate the drying you can use a fan like in the picture below.


If something looks dry, it isn't always completely dry so be carful. I made this mistake and left a noticeable fingerprint, don't make these sad mistakes


In the cardboard box that I spray painted in, to the side of my wood block, the extra paint dried and make the coolest thing ever. I really wish that my whole pedal could have turned out this way


Because I wasn't happy with the finish of the face of my enclosure, I decided to do another coat. This time I think I got something amazing!


Just look at that texture!


Last thing, because you now have a frickn' sweet looking pedal, you don't want to damage the finish. So when you do your offboard soldering, make sure to have some kind of cloth under you pedal. This will make sure your finish is nice and clean. 


Hope you benefited from this post and may your metal enclosure finished be sweet!

Tuesday, 3 December 2013

10,000 PAGE VIEWS!!!!!!!!!!

WOW! thats all I have to say. I started this blog a couple months ago and I never thought that it would catch on. I guess all I can say is THANK YOU!
If any of you have any requests for me to do something like instructional videos or sound clips, anything really, I'd be glad to do it! I'm really interested to hear what some followers of my blog have to say and add.
Once again thank you all and leave some comments down below!

Monday, 2 December 2013

ZVex Box of ROCK pot soldering

I got around to soldering the pots onto the board. In some other posts  used this really cool technique where I use cardboard as a base and attach the pots to there. This allows me to get in every little crevasse of the soldering process and make a nice and tight wiring job. Here are some pictures!


So here you can really see how I was able to get all the wires attached to the pots with minimal slack

This black wire running from the gain pot attaches to the volume pot...
...There is no slack, very tight and fitted in the space





Before you try this cardboard method I suggest you drill the holes for the enclosure to get all the spacing correct. Because I was really anxious to start soldering I just drilled the pot holes.
For this project I want to venture into enclosure finishes!
I chose this really cool spray paint that gives a hammer tone finish. I think this just looks so cool on a pedal. I'll have to finish drilling all the holes before I can get started painting. I'll post my process of painting in. It should be very interesting and a great learning experience!
I hopefully can get some work done this weekend. I'd at least try and get the base coat of this paint going.

Sunday, 17 November 2013

Soldering the ZVex Box Of Rock

It's been a long time! I've been so caught up in school it's been really hard for me to start up my pedal building. In my last post I said I had already soldered in some components, well today I finished soldering all the on-board components to the board. I think this is one of the more tricky builds that I've ever made. Well here are the pictures, hope you enjoy them!




The hardest thing that I had to do for this soldering job was putting these small capacitors in parallel. My technique was to have one cap with it's leads strait and the other one to make loops around the lead lick a guitar string.
I'll be sure to move on to the next step pretty soon. I really hope I can get this done by the end of november, will I reach that goal, I don't know.

Until next time

Sunday, 29 September 2013

Started the ZVEX Box Of Rock

School is really cutting into my pedal making time. I haven't touched my soldering iron since august. Oh well, what can I do.
Yesterday I got started on the ZVEX Box Of Rock. I've heard so many great things about this pedal I just had to build it for myself.
I haven't soldered anything yet, but I did cut out the board to the right size and drill the holes!
Hopefully I'll have some time today to at least solder in the links.

Sunday, 25 August 2013

Red Llama packaged and SOLD!!!

In my previous posts I mention that I was building a pedal for my friend. So I've already sold it now and he couldn't be happier. In this post I just want to show you how I packaged up this custom pedal.

As I ordered the parts online, I also got this cardboard box that fit this pedal perfectly. I personalized the cover to say Red Llama Clone, A handmade pedal, Dimitri Georgaras.
When you open this box up there is the word ENJOY cause I thought that it would cool
Every professional pedal comes with a manual in the box, so I thought it would be cool to write one.

I gave a description of each knob and how to use it best.

There is the pedal itself in its beauty. It was a little small alone in the box so I used some wrapping paper to fill up the space


All and All I had an amazing time building this pedal. It's been fun creating, modding, and soldering up this fantastic sounding pedal!

Sunday, 28 July 2013

Modded Red Llama build report

I've had some time to fiddle around with this beast of a pedal and it is just amazing! In some of my other posts I built a Red Llama for myself and it sounded great, but I don't know why but I this this one just sounds better. I can't put my finger on it. I was jamming with my dad today and I used the pedal. I had the controls at noon running into a clean amp. We were playing Good Times Bad Times and it sounded killer! The bass response was great, very chunky in a good way, and the higher strings were nice and clear. What I love about this pedal is that it's a mix between a fuzz and an overdrive. Because of this magical combo it sounds similar to a tube amp breaking up into fuzzy goodness. The high gain switch is also a great addition. In the down position it's a stock red llama, yet in the up position it unleashes monstrous growl! I can't forget about the volume control. It has so much output that it can punish the front end of your amp, but you can easily get unity gain. Personally I find that all gain pedals sound best when it is above unity gain. So enough of my blabbing, here are some beauty shots of this great looking pedal!

A clean looking inside
I love using these letter stamps on the back plate, I've got the name of the pedal, who it's for, who made it, and the date of completion
I guess I hammered the stamps a little too hard. There are some negative imprints on the back, but I think it looks pretty cool
These rubber feet are great, it keeps the pedal from slipping
The Marshall knobs just look incredible, in my honest opinion

To the left is my original red llama. As I said before, I don't know why but I think the Llama to the right just has a little something extra.
In this build I pretty much triple checked everything but I had the most fun doing it. If you want to read the build report for my other Red Llama, click here. I hope you enjoy these pictures!