Offboard soldering

This part is a very useful step that makes life, or at least this project, a lot easier. Basically it's soldering everything you can before soldering the wires connected to the board. So for example, soldering the wires of the jacks to the 3PDT switch.

For the offboard wiring, i'll be following this diagram, apparently it doesn't allow noise to pass through the circuit. Anyway, it sound like it's worth doing (https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyoM4rluCqZjwTSYZd8YygxHfNAeyZgBbSBl9a2uiaLXDhqpFIlTNmSLoQ9-Bahy8Oj_-HryrlSkTlQ3xJpFRZJe1I2KVOfKGfF_4xflGDbHG3Lh8gXB7evYUbP2KJ-dwsRJLgcHImOg/s1600/!Offboard+wiring.png)
Now this diagram doesn't include a batterie, but with a small modification that can be easily fixed. Instead of having two mono jacks, you need a stereo input jack. For that diagram I used this to help me out (http://www.guitarpcb.com/photos/Easy%20Pedal%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg)
Other than that I just followed the  the diagram and did everything I could before adding the board.

The point of doing the offboard wiring first is so you can bend the wires into the best position for a nice and neat gutshot.

 Twisting the batterie snap can save some space

 Using component leads are good for making links

 Make sure the wires don't touch any other lugs or get in the way of the cable

 The schematic requires that lugs 2 and 3 of the drive pot are connected. Instead of using a component lead, I used pliers and bent them together then soldered them together. If you do do this, make sure you are still able to get the wire through the lug, like in the picture.

 Well at this point it is for the most part looking pretty clean. It's going to be ready for the board

Needle nose pliers were are really big help throughout this step. They allowed me to bend wires with precision


If you have any questions or comments, please leave them in the comment section below